I went on a reconnaisance into southern territory last week, visiting the battlefields at Bull Run, Cold Harbor, and following McClellans "strategic withdrawal" of the Seven Days (Peninsula) campaign. It was my first visit to each of those areas, having only been to Gettysburg and Antietam 10 years ago.
Bull Run (aka Manassas for you Southern folks) was a nice start, as I hiked along both the Union line adjacent to Henry House, and stood behind Jackson's Virginians. Really, that battlefield is all about Jackson, for both 1st and 2nd Bull Run. It gave him his nickname in the first battle, and help solidify it in the second, as he held along the railroad cut. I realized as I walked around Henry House Hill, that I knew little of the history of the first battle, despite having played that battle here 8 or 10 times. I knew the "who" of the battle, and the relative terrain, roads, and crossings, but not the "how" and "where" of the conflict, and the timing of it unfolding. Another reading project added to the list.
Visiting Gettysburg 10 years ago, for me, was a unique experience - you could almost feel the presence and enormity of the event. I was struck in much the same way as I hiked the railroad cut and thought about Jackson riding along that same patch of ground, and looked into the woods across and thought about how fruitless it must have felt to the Union attackers that day. I spent most of my time on the Bull Run battlefield thinking about Jackson. I was on my own, and there were few others visiting - I saw no one in my 2 mile hike along the extent of the railroad cut and back, only scaring a few deer along the way.
The battlefield itself is a beautiful area, without the markers and monuments of Gettysburg. I was amazed at how small rises in the land played large roles in where troops were positioned. The skill of an officer in reading the topography would have been paramount in many instances.
I also followed the course of the Seven Days battles around Richmond. The battlefields were not as impressive or even non existent anymore, but it was fun to track the course of that fight starting with Beaver Dam Creek, to Gaines Mill, and down to Malvern Hill (the other battles are only recounted in roadside signs along the way.) Where I had spent the time at Manassas thinking of Jackson, here was a chance to reflect on the emergence of Lee, and the demise of McClellan, but really it was about Lee taking charge and taking the initiative - a harbinger for the coming few years. the battlefields themselves were sparse, small, and not well kept in the case of Beaver Dam Creek - almost non-existent. I hiked the 1.5 mile loop of the Union lines at Gaines Mill, and didn't envy the Rebel prospects of coming down the hill and across Boatswain Creek to face the Blue up the other side, all the while getting pelted by arty and rifle fire. Again, I was alone on this battlefield, so it was a great hike with plenty of time to reflect on the events and the bigger picture. Malvern Hill I got to just as the day was ending. I only wish they had more cannon available, there were only 6 or 8 pieces on the field. It would have been fun to see the "massed cannon" even if only in a smaller section. Again, Malvern Hill - you think a Hill (I'm from the West, mind you) when in reality it's a gradual slope and not much of a "Hill". But it still would not have been a fun march from the distant edge of the woods into the teeth of those guns.
I stopped at Cold Harbor, since it is nearly adjacent to the Gaines Mill battlefield. the electonic battlemap at the visitors center was fun, and another hike through the woods (I probably coverd 8 or 9 miles on the day, easily) showed the remnants of trenches and breastworks. Staying tith the theme of Generals, Cold Harbor I spent reflecting on Grant. I just finished reading "Six Armies in Tennessee" by Woodworth, and getting introduced to Grant taking over the Western Theater after his victory at Vicksburg. Cold Harbor seemd like a battle that highlighted the good and bad about Grant.
I hope to get back east again soon, and follow Grants 1864 Campaign to the wars conclusion at Appomattox, much as I got to follow the Seven Days Campaign. It would be a fun way to visit.
General Jeff Laub
Union Chief of the Army
ACWGC Cabinet Member
http://www.geocities.com/laubster22/UnionHQ/